Jun 08 2008
Astrakhan, last stop before Kazakhstan
Astrakhan theatre, brought to you by Gazprom
Like most Russian cities, Astrakhan (Астрахань) is an expensive place: the first hotel we find, the Azymut hotel on the Volga, asks for 3000 rubbles (£75) for a room with 2 beds. Fortunately, after 10 minutes of pondering how long we could afford to stay in the city at this rate, someone tells us that there are a few rooms available in the city stadium for 250 rubbles (£6) per person. Later that day we meet Maksym, a 24 years old student, who is very keen to speak some English and offers us a sandwich and a beer.
It seems that if you’re an obvious foreigner and you stand around in the street long enough in Astrakhan, someone will come and try to help you, especially if you’re on a loaded bicycle!
The Kazakh consulate in Astrakhan is closed during the weekend so we have time to relax. Everything here is being renovated mostly thanks to Gazprom, the big sponsor of the city. The petrol business is already big here! It would be a nice place on the Volga delta if not for the armies of flies that invade the city in May and June and make it impossible to stand still for more than a few seconds without being surrounded by thousands of insects.
Tilo and Barbara
On our first day walking around the city we meet two German cyclists, Tilo and Barbara who are also on their way to China through all the Stans and with a much more relaxed schedule than us. Barbara is covered in nasty mosquito bites and that comforts us in the choice of our route accross the steppe rather than down the Volga.
At the terrasse of the Piknik cafe near the Kremlin we also meet two French locals who have been living in Astrakhan for a few years: Nicolas and Patrick. They will soon open their own cafe so if you visit in a few months, make sure to pay them a visit!
